To maintain a Parawing, remove sand without rubbing the fabric, then let the wing dry completely in the shade before storing it. Do not rinse it with fresh water in normal use: you would add water that you won't dry completely, and residual moisture causes the fabric to mold. Regularly check the bridle, seams, lines, and bar, and always store the wing completely dry.
At a glance
| Timing | Best practice |
|---|---|
| During the session | Avoid luffing and abrasive surfaces, keep the wing out of the water before exiting |
| Right after the session | Shake out sand without rubbing, do not rinse the fabric, rinse the bar if it's sandy |
| Before storing | Dry completely in the shade, bridle and seams dry |
| Regularly | Check fabric, seams, lines, bridle, and anchor points |
| In case of damage | Spi patch for a small tear, repair specialist for structural damage |
| Special case | Rinse only after mud or polluted water, then dry thoroughly |
What to do right after each session?
The best maintenance starts in the water, before you even exit. A wing that comes back dry saves you most problems: no sand stuck to wet fabric, no long wait on the beach when it's cold, no moisture trapped in the bag.
Once on shore, shake the wing in the air to remove most of the sand. Don't lay it flat in damp sand and don't rub the fabric to clean it: sand acts as an abrasive and wears the fabric and its coating. Let the sand dry and fall off on its own rather than rubbing it.
Bruno's tip. Before heading back, I sail for about ten minutes keeping the wing out of the water, without letting it drop. It dries while I make my last tacks and I return to the beach with a wing already dry. The car doesn't like a soaked wing, and neither does the wing.
How to dry a Parawing?
Drying a Parawing means removing all water before storing it. Leave the wing flat or suspended, away from direct sunlight: UV rays weaken the fabric and seams over time. Check that the bridle and seams are completely dry, and never store the wing damp. A wing that stays damp in its bag will mold, and mold cannot be fixed.
Drying time depends on location and heat. As a guide:
| Wing type | Indicative drying time |
|---|---|
| Single-skin | 30 min to 1 hour |
| Double-skin | Double the time, with the chambers drying from the inside |
On a double-skin wing, the inside of the chambers takes much longer to dry than the surface. This is the key point not to overlook: fabric that feels dry to the touch can hide chambers still damp inside. Open the wing and let air circulate until the inside is dry.
Should you rinse your Parawing with fresh water?
In normal use, no. Rinsing adds water to the wing. But after a session, you won't spend hours on the beach drying it completely: the rinse water stays in the fabric and bridle, and this residual moisture causes the wing to mold. The salt from normal sailing doesn't justify this risk.
Contrary to popular belief, the coating doesn't come off from a single rinse. What really wears the fabric is the abrasive friction of sand, and very frequent rinsing over the long term. An occasional rinse followed by perfect drying is not a problem in itself: the problem is the incomplete drying that almost always follows a beach-side rinse.
There is one clear exception: after sailing in mud or polluted water, rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Without rinsing, mud soaks into the fabric and leaves stains. In this case, complete drying becomes essential, including chambers on a double-skin wing. Sailing in mud is rare, but when it happens, rinsing is no longer optional.
How to fold and store a Parawing?
Folding a Parawing means gathering the ears toward the center, then rolling or folding the fabric while avoiding creasing the leading edge. On a double-skin wing, start by pushing air out of the chambers; a single-skin wing has none. Align the bridle without twisting it and don't tighten excessively.
Never fold the wing the exact same way each time. Creases always in the same place create weak lines in the fabric, which wear and eventually tear over time. Vary the location of folds from session to session to distribute stress across the entire fabric.
Always store the wing in its dedicated bag, and only once it's completely dry. Avoid throwing it loose in the car, especially next to a foil: spi fabric is light, and a sharp mast or front wing can tear it if you pull on it to leave quickly. Most tears come from careless storage, not from sailing.
How to maintain the bridle and lines?
At each storage, review the bridle and lines. A quick look is enough, as long as you really look: you're looking for a line starting to fray, worn sheath, a knot that has formed. Untangle without pulling hard and store lines without twisting. Our tips to avoid knots from the start: how to avoid line tangles.
A fraying line or damaged bridle line cannot be repaired with a patch: it's a structural element that holds the wing's shape. Don't sail with it, and have it repaired by a specialist. Neglected bridle is one of the most common causes of damage we see in after-sales service.
Should you maintain the bar of your Parawing?
Yes, and it's the only element you really rinse. Unlike the fabric, the bar is cleaned with fresh water. On a bar where lines slide inside, sand is the real enemy: it infiltrates the line passage, wears the sheath, and hinders sliding. A fresh water rinse removes this sand before it settles in.
As soon as the bar is sandy, rinse it with fresh water while sliding the lines during rinsing to evacuate sand from inside, then let it dry. The bar and lines dry quickly: you don't have the mold constraint of the fabric. This action directly protects the sliding, which is the heart of the wing's operation.
What checks should you do regularly?
Every few sessions, take two minutes to check:
- the fabric: tears, micro-holes, wear areas;
- the seams, especially near the leading edge;
- the lines and bridle: fraying, worn sheaths;
- the anchor points;
- the leading edge, which takes the most stress.
Also watch for a simple sign of coating wear: a wing whose coating is degrading relaunches less well from the water and seems heavier after falling to the surface, because the fabric absorbs water instead of repelling it. If you notice this change, the fabric has lived its life and needs to be handled more carefully. The weight of the fabric directly affects the speed of this wear: we explain it in our article on Parawing fabric weight.
What mistakes to avoid?
- Store the wing damp. This is the mistake that kills a Parawing: it molds in the bag.
- Rub sand on the fabric. Sand is an abrasive, it wears the fabric and its coating.
- Leave the wing in prolonged direct sunlight. UV rays weaken fabric and seams.
- Rinse systematically with fresh water without being able to dry completely afterward.
- Throw the wing loose in the car next to a foil: risk of tearing.
- Fold the wing the same way every time. Creases in the same place create weak lines and tears over time.
- Neglect bridle checks and sail with a fraying line.
- Leave sand in the bar. On a bar with internal lines, sand wears the sheath and hinders sliding.
How to repair, and when to take the wing to a pro?
For a small clean hole, clean and dry the area, then apply an adhesive spi patch on both sides of the fabric, rounding the corners so it doesn't peel off. This is a repair within your reach for a clean tear without tension.
The hole caused by a foil is the case we see most often in after-sales service: a mast or front wing strike on thin fabric. On a clean tear, the patch does the job. But as soon as the damage touches the leading edge, the bridle, a line, a structural seam, a large tear, or a highly stressed area, take the wing to a specialist repairer. On these areas, a patch is only a temporary solution.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a Parawing take to dry?
Allow 30 minutes to 1 hour for a single-skin wing, double that for a double-skin wing, depending on location and heat. On a double-skin wing, the inside of the chambers must dry, not just the surface.
Can you dry a Parawing in the sun?
Avoid prolonged direct sunlight. UV rays weaken the fabric and seams over time. Prefer drying in the shade, flat or suspended.
How to remove sand without damaging the fabric?
Shake the wing in the air, or let the sand dry and fall. Never rub the fabric to remove sand: it acts as an abrasive and wears the coating.
What to do if I sailed in mud or polluted water?
Rinse thoroughly with fresh water, otherwise mud soaks in and leaves stains. Then dry the wing completely, including chambers on a double-skin wing.
Should you always fold your Parawing the same way?
No. Repeating the same creases in the same place creates weak lines in the fabric, which wear over time. Vary the location of folds from session to session.
Should you rinse the bar of your Parawing?
Yes. Unlike the fabric, the bar is rinsed with fresh water, especially if lines slide inside: rinsing removes sand that would hinder sliding. Slide the lines during rinsing, then let dry.
Does a repair patch last long?
On a small clean hole, yes. On an area under high tension, it's a temporary solution: take the wing to a repairer.
How to tell if the coating is worn?
The wing relaunches less well from the water and seems heavier after falling to the surface. This is a sign that the fabric is absorbing water instead of repelling it.
About the author
Bruno Sroka is a three-time world champion in Kitesurfing and Kitefoil. Cape Horn crossing (2008), English Channel record (2012), France-Ireland link of 444 km (2013). Former PE teacher, he is the founder of SROKA Company, a Breton brand of foil, Wing foil, SUP, and Parawing, and the designer of the PushBar System®.
Useful definitions: Single-skin, chamber, bridle. To understand the wing: how a Parawing flies. On piloting: how to pilot a Parawing. All the basics in one article: the guide to 30 essential Parawing questions. Discover our wings in the Parawing collection.
