To maintain a parawing, remove sand without rubbing the fabric, then let the wing dry completely in the shade before storing it. Do not rinse it with fresh water during normal use: you would add water that you won't fully dry, and residual moisture causes the fabric to mildew. Regularly check the bridle, seams, lines, and bar, and always store the wing completely dry.
At a glance
| When | The right move |
|---|---|
| During the session | Avoid flutter and abrasive surfaces, keep the wing out of the water before exiting |
| Just after the session | Shake out the sand without rubbing, do not rinse the fabric, rinse the bar if it's sandy |
| Before storing | Dry completely in the shade, bridle and seams dry |
| Regularly | Check fabric, seams, lines, bridle, and anchor points |
| In case of damage | Spi patch for a small tear, repair kit for structural damage |
| Special case | Rinse only after mud or polluted water, then dry thoroughly |
What to do right after each session?
The best maintenance begins in the water, even before you exit. A wing that comes back dry saves you most problems: no sand stuck to wet fabric, no long wait on the beach when it's cold, no moisture trapped in the bag.
Once ashore, shake the wing in the air to remove most of the sand. Do not lay it flat in damp sand and do not rub the fabric to clean it: sand acts as an abrasive and wears the fabric and its coating. Let the sand dry and fall off naturally rather than rubbing it.
Bruno's tip. Before heading back, I sail for about ten minutes keeping the wing out of the water, without letting it fall. It dries while I make my last tacks and I return to the beach with a wing already dry. The car doesn't like a soaked wing, neither does the wing.
How to dry a parawing?
Drying a parawing means removing all water before storing it. Leave the wing flat or suspended, away from direct sunlight: UV rays weaken the fabric and seams over time. Check that the bridle and seams are completely dry, and never store the wing while damp. A wing that stays damp in its bag will mildew, and mildew cannot be undone.
Drying time depends on location and temperature. As a guideline:
| Wing type | Approximate drying time |
|---|---|
| Single-skin | 30 min to 1 hour |
| Double-skin | Twice as long, with chambers to dry from the inside |
On a double-skin wing, the inside of the chambers takes much longer to dry than the surface. This is the key point not to overlook: a wing that feels dry to the touch can hide chambers still damp. Open the wing and let air circulate until the inside is dry.
Should you rinse your parawing with fresh water?
During normal use, no. Rinsing adds water to the wing. Now, after a session, you won't stay for hours on the beach to dry it completely: rinsing water stays in the fabric and bridle, and this residual moisture causes the wing to mildew. The sea salt from normal sailing doesn't justify this risk.
Contrary to popular belief, the coating doesn't disappear from occasional rinsing. What really wears the fabric is abrasive friction from sand, and very frequent rinsing over the long term. An occasional rinse followed by perfect drying is not a problem in itself: the problem is the incomplete drying that almost always follows a beach-side rinse.
There is one clear exception: after sailing in mud or polluted water, rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Without rinsing, mud soaks into the fabric and leaves stains. In this case, complete drying becomes essential, chambers included on a double-skin wing. Sailing in mud is rare, but when it happens, rinsing is no longer optional.
How to fold and store a parawing?
Folding a parawing means gathering the ears toward the center, then rolling or folding the fabric while avoiding creasing the leading edge. On a double-skin wing, start by pushing air out of the chambers; a single-skin has none. Align the bridle without twisting it and don't tighten excessively.
Never fold the wing exactly the same way every time. Creases always in the same spot create weak lines in the fabric that wear out and eventually tear over time. Vary the crease location from session to session to spread stress across the entire fabric.
Always store the wing in its dedicated bag, and only once it's completely dry. Avoid throwing it loose in the car, especially next to a foil: spi fabric is light, and a mast or front wing sharp enough can tear it if you pull on it to hurry off. Most tears come from careless storage, not from sailing.
How to maintain the bridle and lines?
At each storage, review the bridle and lines. A quick look is enough, but you need to really examine them: you're looking for a line starting to fray, worn sheath, knots that have formed. Untangle gently without pulling hard and store lines without twisting. Our tips to avoid knots from the start: how to avoid line tangles.
A fraying line or damaged bridle line cannot be repaired with a patch: it's a structural element that maintains the wing's shape. Don't sail with it, and have it repaired by a specialist. Neglected bridle is one of the most common causes of damage we see in our after-sales service.
Should you maintain the parawing bar?
Yes, and it's the only element you really rinse. Unlike the fabric, the bar is cleaned with fresh water. On a bar where lines slide inside, sand is the real enemy: it infiltrates the line passage, wears the sheath, and hinders sliding. A rinse with clear water flushes sand before it settles in.
As soon as the bar is sandy, rinse it with fresh water while sliding the lines, to evacuate sand from inside, then let dry. The bar and lines dry quickly: you don't have the mildew concern of the fabric. This step directly protects sliding, which is the heart of how the wing works.
What checks should you do regularly?
Every few sessions, take two minutes to check:
- the fabric: tears, micro-holes, wear areas;
- seams, especially near the leading edge;
- lines and bridle: fraying, worn sheaths;
- anchor points;
- the leading edge, which bears the most stress.
Also watch for a simple sign of coating wear: a wing whose coating is degrading relaunches less easily from the water and feels heavier after hitting the surface, because the fabric absorbs water instead of repelling it. If you notice this change, the fabric is wearing and needs more care.
What mistakes to avoid?
- Store the wing damp. This is the mistake that kills a parawing: it mildews in the bag.
- Rub sand on the fabric. Sand is an abrasive, it wears the fabric and its coating.
- Leave the wing in prolonged direct sunlight. UV rays weaken fabric and seams.
- Rinse systematically with fresh water without being able to dry it completely afterward.
- Throw the wing loose in the car next to a foil: risk of tear.
- Fold the wing the same way every time. Creases in the same spot create weak lines and tears over time.
- Neglect checking the bridle and sail with a fraying line.
- Leave sand in the bar. On a bar with internal lines, sand wears the sheath and hinders sliding.
How to repair, and when to take the wing to a pro?
For a small clean hole, clean and dry the area, then apply a stick-on spi patch on both sides of the fabric, rounding the corners so it won't peel off. This is a repair you can do yourself for a clean tear without stress.
A hole caused by a foil is the case we see most often in our after-sales service: a mast or front wing strike on thin fabric. For a clean tear, the patch works. But as soon as damage affects the leading edge, bridle, a line, a structural seam, a large tear, or a heavily stressed area, have the wing repaired by a specialist. In these zones, a patch is only a temporary solution.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a parawing take to dry?
Count 30 minutes to 1 hour for a single-skin, twice as long for a double-skin, depending on location and temperature. On a double-skin, the inside of the chambers must dry, not just the surface.
Can you dry a parawing in the sun?
Avoid prolonged direct sunlight. UV rays weaken the fabric and seams over time. Prefer drying in the shade, flat or suspended.
How do you remove sand without damaging the fabric?
Shake the wing in the air, or let the sand dry and fall off. Never rub the fabric to remove sand: it acts as an abrasive and wears the coating.
What if I sailed in mud or polluted water?
Rinse thoroughly with fresh water, otherwise mud soaks in and leaves stains. Then completely dry the wing, chambers included on a double-skin.
Should you always fold your parawing the same way?
No. Repeating the same creases in the same spot creates weak lines in the fabric that wear over time. Vary the crease location from session to session.
Should you rinse the bar of your parawing?
Yes. Unlike the fabric, the bar is rinsed with fresh water, especially if lines slide inside: rinsing flushes sand that would hinder sliding. Slide the lines while rinsing, then let dry.
Does a repair patch last a long time?
On a small clean hole, yes. On an area under high stress, on the leading edge, a structural seam, or the bridle, it's a temporary solution: have the wing repaired by a specialist.
How do you know if the coating is worn?
The wing relaunches less easily from the water and feels heavier after hitting the surface. It's a sign that the fabric absorbs water instead of repelling it.
About the author
Bruno Sroka is a triple world champion in Kitesurfing and Kitefoil. Cape Horn crossing (2008), English Channel record (2012), France-Ireland liaison of 444 km (2013). Former PE teacher, he is the founder of SROKA Company, a Breton brand specializing in Foil, Wing foil, SUP and Parawing, and the designer of the PushBar System®.
Useful definitions: Single-skin, chamber, bridle. To understand the wing: how a parawing flies. On piloting: how to pilot a parawing. All the basics in one article: the guide to 30 essential parawing questions. Discover our wings in the parawing collection.
